One With Land — Restaurant Review

The food in this photo might look very brown. But don’t get down on brown — think caramel, think gravy, think of the violent sear on a steak. Brown is best. The pictured dish is salt-baked celeriac — and I have some history with this brutal root, which I write about in my latest review for the Times Union, because the only time I’ve ever sent back a plate of food, it was because of some watery celeriac mash.

“The kitchen, irked by my complaint, sent the plate back out unaltered. Our server was tasked with delivering the following line: ‘Chef wants to know if you understand what celeriac tastes like.’ Things turned somewhat nasty after that.”

Fortunately the dish in the photo, from One With Land, exorcized my celeriac demons. It was one of the best humble vegetable dishes I’ve ever eaten. Read the whole of my review here.